Sexy Underbust Corset

Create a custom fitted, boned corset with this great tutorial.

Tutorial Written by: Roethke
Visit the author's website here: Horseflesh Productions
The author provides this tutorial for personal use. Please do not use it to create goods for sale.

Want to make one too? Well, here's how it's done:

Take your measurements. Do this naked, and don't lie to yourself because that's just dumb.
Make a little sketch so you'll remember, or write it down.

Measure: True Waist,
Just above hips
Just below ribcage
From below belly button to xiphoid process

Decide how much cinching you want to have done. 4"? 3"? Also, corsets don't go all the way around. There should be a little space between the pieces in the back, like this:

(or potentially more space than that)

For the pattern: Divide largest measurement (probably ribcage) by half, and minus 2 or 3 inches. Draw a rectangle with that width, and the height being the measurement from below navel to xiphoid process.

Section the rectangle into four sections, with the end section being slightly wider. At the center between top and bottom, draw a horizontal line. Along this line, squeeze the pieces into hourglass shapes by 0.5" on either side. Keep the furthermost edges straight (on my sketch, I initially didn't do that on one edge, so don't you do that).

Click for larger image

Number each pattern piece so you can keep track of its position and side.

Now, pin the pieces to your fabric. Cut them out, then flip them over and cut out the reverse. You'll end up with four of each pattern piece, two for each side of the corset. Number the pieces as you cut them out with a pencil or some other washable marker.

If you're doing the corset all in one color of fabric, you can save time with the end pieces and cut them out like this, with the fabric folded at the end:

Don't forget to leave spave for the seam. I always have 0.5" around the edge of each piece.

Now, pin the fabric together, and sew it.

(pin and sew the orange lines together)

Do if for the other side too.

Sew the bottom edge.

Now, flip it inside out (so the seams will now be on the inside).

Get a big plastic jug, like a juice jug or detergent. It will need to be about as tall as the navel-xiphoid measurement. Cut it into strips, about 0.75" wide. For the ends, you'll need wider pieces, about the width of those areas.

Here's a visual illustration of the sizes you'll need for the boning:

Place the plastic into the corset piece, pinning it into place. Use two strips of plastic for each section, to keep it stiffer. If you use white or transparent fabric like I did, make sure the print or label on the boning only faces one side.

Here's a pic of the boning pinned into place before sewing:

Sew the boning into place. For the raw bottom edge, use ribbon or finishing tape to close it. I used some pink lace, as it would match the ribbon I eventually used to lace it.

For grommets, measure along corresponding edges. Don't place them any farther apart than about an inch, or it will make the corset buckle. I'm lucky enough to make tools for grommeting, but if you don't, you can use eyelets instead.

Remember when you lace the back to use two pieces of lace, not one. They should tie in the middle. This way, it's easier to cinch it up.


Athena's Armoury said...

I wish I could sew. This is so cool!

Frida Christine said...

What kind of jug did you use since it makes such a great shape?

Anonymous said...

This is a great, easy to use pattern!
My attempt worked really well, except I took too much off the largest measurement and ended up with a very large gap at the back but it still looks good.
Thanks for posting this

Unknown said...

did you by any chance mean "measure just below breasts" and not "just below ribcage"? Because that's what the diagram seems to illustrate... plus it'd make more sence

Unknown said...

also, how exactly do you leave spave for seams if you're using the measured pattern? how do you add the .5" to the edges of each peice?

Bloody_Eliza said...

I used this tutorial/pattern and altered it for a costume for my sister, she loved it. it turned out amazing considering it was the first one i had ever made, i did make a practice one first. but thank you for making this tutorial, without it i doubt i cud have made it, thanks a lot

ElizabethGail said...

This is awesome! Good job. At first, it was a little confusing...but after I read it a few times...I was like..ooOoooo. Thank you so much. It saved me LOTS of money. (patterns are SO expensive!)

Unknown said...

I made my first one with this pattern, but I didn't pay attention as well as I should have and mussed up just a tad. It came out fine, though. :) Fits well and looks amazing.
Only thing... this is TOTALLY one of those projects you do not want to try without a sewing machine, trust me. It took me 14 hours. >_<

Kirstyn Lia said...

This is awesome, thx so much for posting this. Although I am normally completely opposed to stupid organized events, and try to avoid them at all costs, I let my friends talk me into going to Prom since im graduating this year. Long story short, I wanted to wear somthing interesting and original so Idecided to make my own dress rather than buy one, and it included a corset. Ive made clothes before, but never a corset so im really glad I found this. :D my date will go crazy when he sees the dress :p

Kirstyn Lia said...

I let my friends talk me into going to Prom, and I wanted to wear somthing original, so im making my own dress. Although ive made clothes before, I had no idea how to make a corset, which I really wanted as part of it. Thanks so much for posting this, im going to use it to include as part of the design (hopefully, if I can pull it off :P)
my date will enjoy it I beleive :D

Rachael Leona said...

If I want to add steel boning would I add it where the seams are?

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Unknown said...

I'm trying to make this without my mum knowing so I can't really cut up a jug. Is there any other way I could do it?

Great project though and I'm dying to try it!

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